CNS Local Life(CNS Foodie): Of all cuisines, Mexican is my favourite, though I do admit to liking Tex-Mex and preferring a crispy taco to a soft one. But I also appreciate that the most important aspect of a Mexican meal is the flavour, no matter the vessel in which it is served. So it was with great expectations that my companion and I headed over to Agave Grill, which has reopened its doors after about a two-year hiatus, looking for it once again to deliver genuine Mexican cuisine. The new place is directly across North Sound Way from its old spot.

Let’s begin with the décor and atmosphere. The new location is bigger, which is a welcome change as the old Agave was too small and pretty much topped out at 20 people. But old Agave had a certain charm, an eclectic collection of Spanish relics and bold colours and rugged, haphazardness that created an atmosphere of a true hole-in-the-wall cantina. New Agave is sparse and plain and the décor is difficult to translate; I couldn’t decide if it was going for upscale minimalist or if the point was to evoke a less-is-more feel. White walls, barely adorned, dim lighting and wood accents did not render a sense of ethnicity. The atmosphere was likewise stark.

As for seating options, there is one round table for a larger group, with the main dining area is otherwise pressed against the farthest wall or tucked into a booth. For a bit more privacy, there’s a semi-closed off section with a few tables that appear segregated from the rest of the restaurant. We were seated in the main part, against the wall, at a table that was too close for comfort to another couple. That proved a bit awkward as we could have easily reached into their basket of chips by mistake, the gap between us being mere inches.

Our server arrived shortly after we were seated. She was not friendly and seemed a bit distracted and preoccupied. Throughout the evening we found ourselves trying to make eye contact or somehow get her attention; she did not appear to be handling the crowd very well and was not interested in checking on her tables on a regular basis. Perhaps the servers need a bit of training since as much as a restaurant is about the food, it has to be about the service as well.

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Chips & all 3

We mulled over the drinks menu and settled on the east 8 hold up ($10), a Tequila Ocho offering, shaken with fresh pineapple, aperol, citrus and passionfruit, and the blood plumb cobbler ($10), a long cocktail with Tequila Ocho, citrus, house blend LBV port, pineapple and orange Curacao, with a splash of soda. Both were freshly made at the bar and proved tasty and refreshing, a good start to the evening.

You can’t go to a Mexican restaurant and not order the chips and salsa. Being really committed to that cause, we opted for the combo of chips & all 3 ($14), which featured totopos (hand-cut chips) served with guacamole, salsa and queso. The chips were crunchy, salty and perfect. The guacamole was chunky, velvety and fresh and the salsa, which was more of a pico de gallo, was sufficiently chilled. We found the queso a bit wanting, but it was obvious that it was made from scratch and not an imitation out-of-the-can number, so we were satisfied to dip and munch.

As we finished our shared appetizer, we realised that the restaurant had filled up, with all seats taken, even at the bar. Our server appeared to be the only one on the floor, juggling tables, orders and ad hoc requests. We struggled to get her attention to place our main order and ended up waiting quite a while until we could flag her down. We had questions about the menu and she seemed impatient and rushed. Why didn’t she have more help?

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Crispy tres amigos

The menu is laden with your typical fare of burritos, quesadillas and enchiladas, but we were focused on the tacos. With three sets of options, the taco menu was actually quite extensive, and you could choose from a 3” or 6” handmade soft corn taco or regular crispy taco. I opted for the crispy tres amigos ($14) – three crispy shell tacos with cheese mix and roasted red pepper sauce, lettuce, onions, sour cream and pico de gallo, and chose one beef, one chicken and one pork. My dining companion went with the tequila shrimp taco ($10), two 3” handmade corn tortilla tacos served with red sauce and topped with sweet and sour slaw and the slow taco carne asada ($14), two 6” slow tacos, Negra Modela beer-marinated grilled skirt steak and dab of guacamole.

Looking at my plate of tacos, I knew I would not be satisfied, as the meat was merely a thin layer along the bottom, barely reaching to the ends of the shell. Shredded cheese was dropped into the middle and the balance of sides were arranged on the plate, for me to add. I messily assembled the first taco, chicken, and eagerly took the first bite. The shell was indeed crunchy, but there was nothing special about it at all. The meat lacked flavour and there wasn’t enough if it to have any significant impact on my taste buds. The beef taco was equally underwhelming. The pork taco proved a bit tastier, but still lacked substance or quantity. I was done in minutes and turned my attention to my companion who had been surveying her plates with apprehension.

At $10 and $14, one would expect a proportionate serving of food, but what was offered seemed more fitting for an appetizer than a main course. The 3” taco was a flat round soft tortilla with one – maybe one and a half – shrimp(s) topped with slaw and a red sauce, taking up perhaps 1 ½” of space. Very, very little food for the price. Too little to determine if it was good, as the tortilla (small as it was) was the prominent feature, overshadowing the protein and veg. The 6” carne asada taco was a bit bigger, offering much more meat but lacking any flavour whatsoever, not even salt, which was clearly not part of the food prep, except for the chips, of course.

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Cochinita pibil

With ethnic cuisine, there is an art to the flavours. The meats are typically the same from culture to culture, but the spices and seasonings are what set them apart. With many, that is achieved through the sauces, added during or after cooking, so it might not even be necessary to add extra salt or pepper. Unfortunately, Agave’s offerings on this night fell short. The meats were under-seasoned and the thinly applied sauces were too scarce.

And we were still hungry.

We asked for the menu to fill the void and chose another round of tacos, because anything else would have just been gluttonous! We ordered the 3” handmade corn tortilla Cayman catch ($13) with wahoo and the 6”cochinita pibil ($11), another slow taco, with achiote pork, cooked in banana leaves and citrus. We should have stopped at the chips and salsa, the last two were as unremarkable and flavourless as the rest.

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Churros

But we were determined to finish on a high note, which at that point required copious amounts of either tequila or sugar. We chose the latter, ordering the churros ($9) with homemade guava ice cream and a slice of caramelised orange and the fried ice cream ($9) with vanilla. Finally, heaven! The churros were warm, crunchy, chewy and sweet with a side of Nutella for dipping, which singlehandedly boosted Agave’s food rating by one spoon. Fried ice cream always seems unnatural to me, but here we were, facing a giant serving. The outer layer of the deep-fried concoction appeared to be a tortilla, wrapped around a ball of ice cream, and topped with powdered sugar and shredded coconut. The wrapping was difficult to cut through and a bit chewy in texture, so we gave up on it once we’d broken through to the ice cream, which was just plain vanilla. A few bites and we were done.

Our elusive server eventually brought the bill and we were out of there – two hours after arriving, with very little of that time spent savouring and enjoying, which is unfortunate as we really wanted to fall in love with Agave again.

However, we will hold out hope that the restaurant will better train their servers, use salt and consider portion sizes in relation to appetites. Some items should just be starters and no one should be expected to pay $28 for four teeny tiny tacos.

The total bill was $142.60, including 15% gratuity.

Agave Grill website